Local Massachusetts Ice Climbing

 There's very little ice climbing worth checking out in Massachusetts. Suffice to say it's a surprise when you find things that actually look good. I think this one is in the Todd Swain Southern New England Ice Climbing guide. I'm not going to say where this is (ask me privately) since I think access might be questionable and I believe a local land trust may be looking to acquire the property. It is a beautiful spot, near many local trails in very western Massachusetts, and acquisition for preservation makes sense. It's also likely the "best" ice climbing area in the Bay State, there are several lines, and the potential for a few more.

Farley Ice

This winter was cold. Cold is good for ice formation at south-facing climbing areas like Farley. September will mark the start of my fourth year in the Pioneer Valley, so it was about time that I check out the ice at one of our local crags.

There isn't a ton of ice at Farley, but nearly every route has a bit of engaging climbing. Over the course of three days this season I climbed several lines there. I'm excited for the next cold winter so I can explore there more.

Here are some photos from this winter. It's only taken me a month and a half to post them.

Andy Neuman climbing an awesome M6+ pitch on the left side of the main
slab

The iced up gully right of the Green Mile is a good WI4
outing

Andy found this gem on the right end of the lower tier.
We did an M5 rock second pitch too.

Dolci, in the chimney at the start of a route left of
 Barn Door Crack

Dolci following Brown Spot (name?) on the upper tier