Wednesday, April 2, 2025

Riviera Betsiamites - Liberte and more

 The little-known and rarely climbed Liberte is among the finest of ice routes. It's jaw dropping coming around the corner and finding this route only meters off the trail. Liberte is a long way in. We climbed here in March 2025 as part of a longer Cote Nord trip.

The Riviere Betsiamites is giant and the first ascensionists floated downstream to access the climbs. There is snowmobile access though, via a network of established primary and secondary trails, and a significant (~10miles) distance down an unmarked path. This path goes over a height of land and past Riviere Laliberte and several abandoned camps. 

The unmarked path was not broken and the work breaking trail was substantial (one and a half days of recon and trailbreaking). We were rewarded with three days of excellent climbing. At night we stayed in Baie Comeau but I'd highly recommend trailbreaking and then camping near the climbing. A hot tent and camping supplies for three days would make for a great experience.The approach is short, it's sheltered, and the location is spectacular and remote. 

The amazing Liberte
Deep snow thwarted our first attempt


On second attempt snow was more settled and we broke in the trail

mountain panorama on the trailer


Cave belay top of pitch 1 Liberte right side

Keith and Silas on Liberte



Steep column cragging day 2

Alden leading

Riviere Laliberte, frozen, the remains of an old suspension bridge are just upstream

Day 3. The size of the sandwich is remarkable.


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